
Anish Jethmalani and Tina Muñoz Pandya in “Dhaba on Devon.” (Photos by Michael Brosilow)
Recommended
Many cultures have opened stores and restaurants over the years on Devon Avenue, a north-side shopping street that ends at Sheridan Road. Mid last-century when my family lived in Chicago’s Rogers Park area and I attended Sullivan High School, Devon was very Jewish and a perfect place to find good clothing stores, jewelry shops and delis.
That changed. And the reason I mention it is because the play, “Dahba on Devon Avenue ” is about how neighborhoods and customer needs change.
After moving to the northern suburbs and returning after college, I would go to Devon Avenue with friends to eat and grocery shop for seasonings and specialty items at ethnic restaurants and stores, often those from India and Pakistan such as the Patel group.
That was years ago. I don’t know what Devon Avenue is like today but I can understand how a longtime owner might fight change when his restaurant fails to attract or keep customers. And why his family tries to get him to adopt to the changing times.
“Dhaba On Devon Avenue” by Madhuri Shekar, a world premiere by Writers Theatre in Glencoe, co-produced by Timeline Theatre, is about that fight. The restaurant, Dhaba Canteen, has been a neighborhood spot for years but now can’t refinance after business has fallen off.
Complicating matters, owner and chef Neeraj, preformed with a fine combination of heart and stubbornness by Anish Jethmalni, has Parkinson’s so can’t taste and smell his food the way he used to. He also won’t admit to that problem or accept help until too late from his friend, Jahan, (Adil Jaisinghani) who has a snack empire of Indian cookies.

Mueen Jahan (left) and Anish Jethmalani in “Dahba on Devon Avenue ”
Daughter Rita (Tina Munoz Pandya, perfectly interpreted as a willing co-worker at the restaurant) and Sindhu (Arya Daire, sort of an estranged daughter whom Rita has called about their problems) bring the situation to a conclusion.
As a foil to all the kitchen activity and intergenerational drama, is line cook Luz (well depicted by Isa Arciniegas).
And in case you’re thinking the place is a large eatery know that“dhaba” can be translated in Hindi for “hole in the wall” and used here to mean a very small restaurant.
Directed by Chay Yew with set design by Lauren M. Nichols and costumes by Christine Pascual, “Dhaba” and cast were surely moved, dishes, aprons and kitchen, from Devon Avenue into Writers Theatre in Glencoe.
Details: “Dahba on Devon Avenue ” at Writers Theatre with TimeLine theatre, is at 325 Tudor court, Glencoe, now thru July 27, 2025. Running time: 90-95 minutes with no intermission. For tickets and more information visit WritersTheatre or call (847) 242-6000.
Jodie Jacobs
For more reviews visit Theatre in Chicago





